Gunpla Guides

Gunpla Decals: Stickers vs Water-Slide vs Dry Transfer

By Hobby Gundam5 min read

Gundam Decal sheets next to a Gundam model kit

The small markings on a Gunpla kit (warning labels, unit numbers, faction emblems) are what make a plastic model look like a real machine. Most kits include stickers, and you can upgrade to dedicated decal sheets. But stickers, water-slide decals and dry-transfer decals all work differently.

Here's how each type works, how to apply them, and which one to pick for your build.

Quick pick: use the kit's stickers for your first builds. When you want a cleaner, painted-on look, move to water-slide decals, then seal them with a topcoat.

The three types of Gunpla decals

Type How it works Looks Difficulty
Foil and plastic stickers Peel and stick; included in most kits Thicker, visible edges Easy
Water-slide decals Soak in water, slide off the backing onto the part Thin, almost painted on Medium
Dry-transfer (rub-on) Rub the marking from a clear sheet onto the part The thinnest, no film edge Medium, no second tries

Stickers: the easy start

Most HG and RG kits come with a sticker sheet: colored pieces that fill in details the plastic doesn't, plus marking stickers on some kits. They're easy and forgiving.

How to apply stickers cleanly

  1. Cut the sticker out of the sheet with a hobby knife, close to the edge.
  2. Lift it with tweezers, not fingers. Fingerprints and skin oil stop it sticking.
  3. Place one edge first, check the alignment, then press it down from the center out.
  4. Rub the edges down with a cotton swab.

A pair of Mr. Basic Tweezers makes this much easier.

Water-slide decals: the upgrade

Water-slide decals are printed on a thin film over a paper backing. Soak them, and the film slides off the paper onto your part. They're much thinner than stickers, so they look like they were printed on.

What you need

  • A decal sheet for your kit or series. Bandai's Gundam Decals come in kit-specific and multi-use sheets.
  • A small dish of lukewarm water
  • Tweezers, a hobby knife and cotton swabs
  • A soft brush (optional)
  • Decal softener and a topcoat (optional but recommended)

Step by step

  1. Cut out the decal as close to the printed edge as you can. Less clear film means less shine around it.
  2. Dip it in water for 10 to 20 seconds, then set it on a paper towel for a moment.
  3. Test it. When the decal slides on the paper with a light nudge, it's ready.
  4. Slide it onto the part. Hold the backing paper next to the spot and push the decal off with a damp brush or tweezer tip.
  5. Position it with a damp brush while it's still wet.
  6. Press out the water with a cotton swab, rolling from the center outward. Don't wipe; roll.
  7. Let it dry fully, ideally overnight, before handling.
  8. Seal it with a light topcoat so it doesn't scratch or peel.

Tips for water-slide decals

  • Apply decals to a smooth surface. A gloss surface helps decals sit flat, which is why some builders gloss coat first, decal, then matte coat to finish.
  • On curved surfaces or panel lines, a decal softener helps the film settle in.
  • Work one decal at a time. Several decals soaking together tend to fold or stick to each other.

Dry-transfer decals: the thinnest finish

Dry-transfer (rub-on) decals sit on a clear carrier sheet. You place the sheet on the part and rub the marking off with a burnishing tool or a rounded tip. There's no film at all, so the result looks printed on.

  1. Cut out the marking with a little margin.
  2. Position it on the part and hold it in place with a small piece of tape.
  3. Rub firmly over the whole marking with a rounded tool.
  4. Lift the carrier slowly from one corner. If part of the marking stays on the carrier, lay it back down and rub again.

The catch: once a dry-transfer is down, you can't slide it into place. Take your time on positioning.

Which type is which? Bandai has made Gundam Decals in both styles over the years. Most of the sheets we carry are water-slide, and the product page usually says which type it is. Check before you start.

Decal sheets we carry

Many of our Gundam Decal sheets ship now from Fort Lauderdale. A few favorites by series:

Browse them all in Decal Sheets.

Where to put decals

Less is more. A few well-placed markings look more realistic than covering every panel.

  • Follow the decal sheet's placement guide first.
  • Put warning and caution markings near hatches, vents and joints, where a real machine would have them.
  • Repeat unit numbers and emblems symmetrically: shoulder, shield, and one leg.
  • Panel line before you decal. See how to panel line Gunpla.

Shipping

Items marked In stock ship from our Fort Lauderdale shop in 1 business day. Imported items arrive in 3 to 4 weeks (4 to 5 weeks to Puerto Rico and outside the continental US). Economy shipping is free over $75 in the continental US, Standard is $10, and Florida residents pay $5.

FAQ

Are water-slide decals better than stickers?

They look better: thinner, with no visible edge once sealed. Stickers are easier and fine for most builds.

Do I need a topcoat over decals?

It's strongly recommended for water-slide decals. Without it they can scratch or peel when you handle the kit.

Can I use a decal sheet made for a different kit?

Yes. Multi-use sheets are designed for that, and many builders use markings from one sheet across a whole squad.

My water-slide decal won't move. What do I do?

Add a drop of water with a brush. If it has started to dry, the water loosens it so you can reposition it.

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